No. They make a tool to depress the "puck" (tappet/or shim holder). Basically it just presses the valve in a bit. I suppose you have to make sure the piston is not TDC. Then you fish out the shim with a little screwdriver, or some people use compressed air to lift it up a bit. The Toyota tool looks sort of like funny pliers. The Fiat tool is hard to describe. Basically you turn the engine until the cam lobe is pressing in the lifter, then you insert the tool which has like a finger on each side of the cam lobe, and then you turn the cam so the lobe is away from the lifter but the tool still presses against it keeping it down, opening up a space to remove the shim. I suppose it is faster to do it than to explain it!

My exhaust are supposed to be .020" to .030" and a couple are at .031". Some that were at .031" before are now at .030". One is at .025". I am not sure if I really need to change anything.

I am guessing tight exhaust valves will lead to burned valves and tight intake will rob power?

Mike

__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra