You do need a dependable spring compresser (************************ rents them) for this job...I just did all front and rear suspension bushings...here are a few tips about the front.

General comments:

Get a large adjustable wrench, and proper size crescents (or sockets, half inch drive) for bolts...also get lengths of pipe to place over wrench for leverage, or proper "breaker bar"...these big bolts are tough to remove without leverage...unless you have an air hammer with sockets.

When installing rubber bushings, apply silicone grease (sylglide)...not petroleum grease...to help slide in.

Apply anti seize to all bolts/nuts....very important to be able to adjust during subsequent alignments.

Support front end with good jack stands and apply emergency brake...this work requires a lot of muscle..you dont want to pull the car down on top of you!!

Specific comments:

Before you remove the main bolts for the inner lower control arm (LCA) bushings, mark the position of the washer....this is an off-set washer with a tooth in the inside...the groove in the main bolt fits into this tooth..by rotating the bolt you adjust position of wheel (hard to explain, obvious when you see). this should be adjusted during front end alighment anyway, but get it close to where is was when you reassemble.

There are two inner bushings on each LCA...they are held in place by an aluminum sleeve that passes through the center hole of each bushing and is flared on each end (the main bolt passes through this sleeve). To remove, take out the main bolt, and use an electric drill with a large bit (1/2 ") to destroy the aluminum sleeve.

From here, removing the bushings is very tough...get a huge adjustable channel lock pliers (sears). Grip lip of bushing and twist..tough to get a good grip, but keep trying...eventually you can get it to budge and keep twisting until you get it out (this is a b___buster, but not too bad). The other one can now be knocked out from the opposite side.

To install is a little bit of a challenge...the bushing kit consists of two bushings and a single aluminum sleeve flared on one end. the goal is to install both bushings, with the sleeve passing through both, then use a tool to flare the other end of the sleeve thus holding both bushings in firmly. If you just press in both bushings without the sleeve, the two holes will not likely be aligned, so when you attempt to put in the sleeve...it wont go in. Then you will likely damage the fragile sleeve trying to force it!!! Here is what to do: Push in both bushings (with silicone grease) by hand pressure as much as you can. At this point, you can still rock each bushing by hand, so you can pass the aluminum sleeve through one bushing, then rock both bushings until holes are alligned and you can get the aluminum sleeve started into the opposite bushing. when this is accomplished, just use two c-clamps (one on each side) to press them in..trying to keep everything going straight so the clamps dont slip. When the bushings are fully in, flare out the end of the aluminum sleeve using some type of tool...I used a plier handle with a hammer..whatever. Once the sleeve is flared all around, remove clamps and everything is set to go back together.

Note:


While you have the spring compressor, you should also replace the bushing where the brake rod (aka guide rod, track rod) attaches to the LCA...it attaches right below the main spring. Compress spring, remove the spring pan (three 13mm bolts, very easy) for access, remove center bolt for this bushing and replace...cheap part, easy and straightforward.

While you have the spring compressor, and when the LCA is detached, and brake rod is detached...you might as well replace the guide rod mounts (the things located where the guide rod attaches to the frame near foot wells. Very easy and self-explanitory.

Finally, remaining front suspension parts are easy and straigtforward to do...you dont really need a spring compressor, but the job is somewhat more convenient with one. Even ball joints aren't bad (press tool is essential to press in ball joints). Upper control arms, anti sway bar bushings, tie rods, steering damper etc......very easy, very self-explanitory. (you need pickleforks to separate compression fittings on tie rods, ball joints, upper control arms)

Lastly, if you attempt the ball joints without a spring compressor (not really needed, but nice), do not remove the shock absorbers as they act as a spring stop!!! You will need to use a bottle jack to apply pressure to the LCA to allow the weight of the car to compress the main spring to varying degrees for disassembly and re-assembly. But the time to do this work is when you have the spring compressor....compress the spring, rip it all appart and do it all at once....one LONG day, most likely two days for the entire front end rebuild...pretty easy on the 123 chassis cars, and you'll save lots of $$$$!!

good luck,

mark

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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver)
1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky)