Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr
Try a half-turn at a time. "Slight" is one or two notches.  If you go too firm at WOT, all the part throttle shifts will firm up also, which you don't want. |
OK. Clockwise hardens the shifts, right?
Quote:
|
Basically you need to blow through each tube and make sure it's clear. Or just replace every single one... the old Tecalan tubes get brittle with heat, and they're cheap. You can replace everything with fresh tubing for about $20, it's a few bucks per meter.
|
All the hard lines hold vacuum just fine, so I'm going to be cheap and not replace them quite yet (at least not until I have Rusty on the phone again so I can order the right colors). What I was worried about was more the switchover valves...
Quote:
|
The switchover valves are basically relays, they are on or off. A plunger inside moves up & down. I believe the center port is routed to the bottom with no voltage, and routed to the top with voltage applied. You should be able to easily blow through them. If they're plugged, they can be very hard to clean out, they can't be taken apart. Usually the only one that gets clogged is the one between the manifold and the ALDA, it can get plugged with oily sooty goop from the intake.
|
OK, that gives me enough to play around and see if they are functional and/or leaking. That's what I have a Mity-Vac and a bench power supply for, after all.
I'll post my detailed findings on their operation, if it'll help anyone. I'm still concerned about the fact that my BFS takes so long to come up to full vacuum at idle, but I don't have any other symptoms of a leak in the vac system (intermittent climate control, slow rear headrests, etc.).
