I watched the mechanic do most of the job on mine and think I could do it, but it took him 2.5-3 hours to get it done. Plus, if it can be messed up, I stand a pretty good chance of accomplishing that.

There are two decent size hoses that feed into the driver side of the fuel distributor, which have to be removed. Probably best to also go ahead remove the idle air distributor hoses. They are the black hoses that lie along side the valve covers and connect to each of the injector insulators/holders. They will have to be removed in order to get to the holder anyway, so best to disconnect them up front. Depending on the mileage, it's likely they will need replacing, too. There is also a hose that wraps around the fuel distributor that you might consider replacing. You can get the first two from Phil at Fastlane, for about $17.00 each. The one that wraps around is close to $50.00. A word of caution. There is a nylon fitting that mates each of the two long hoses to the wrap around one. I was going to just pop the connectors in and mate the hoses up, but the fitting is about 1/2 inch and it goes into a hole about 1/4 inch. I tried greasing the fitting and hose and heating it in order to get the hose to stretch enough for the fitting to go in. I am just not strong enough to force it in. It's worth what ever the mechanic wants to charge for that part of the job alone.

Then, it involves unscrewing each line from the fuel distributor and injector. Since I replaced everything but the injectors, I could probably just loosen the clamp on the manifold which holds the injector in place enough to pop the old injector and seal out without having to pry the insulator/holder out, too. However, you'll likely want to replace the whole assembly. In that case, the mechanic used a long pair of needle nose pliers with the tip bent at a 90 degree angle to pry the insulator out. He then cleaned the seat with a rag and made sure the manifold was clean so no dirt or grit got into the openings.

In all truthfulness, I'll probably pay him another $200.00 to do the job. Though it seems pretty simple on the surface, it is time consuming and there is plenty of room for a non-mechanic type (me) to mess things up.

Still, it is doable for anyone with a little mechanical skill and a good back.

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Don
'85 500SL (Euro) - 186,000 w/a complete restoration and engine rebuild at 154,000
'95 C280 - 174,000