Ok
I though you had mentioned seeing the test procedure.

It is quite simple.
At the drier/reciever, there are a couple of pressure switches..the one that has 2 pigtail wires coming out of it is the low fan switch. At the end of the pigtail, you can just peel back the connector covers and jumper right there with a screwdriver . The low fan should start right up [ key On , of course]
This is a test that takes 2 secs to do and is the first test I always do on a/c systems..I can not stress the importance the low fan has on both the effeciency of the a/c system and the engine coolant temps when ac is on.
If the fan does not pass this simple test, you have a fan circuit problem and it should be addressed before any other work is done/started.
We see so many a/c repairs get wacked out with all kinds of craziness when all that was wrong right from the get-go was a simple fuse for the aux fan............

A refrigeration system comparison to stress this point for all:
I used to do Domestic/Commercial refrigeration years ago, and by far, one of the largest complaints we would get on Service Calls was Poor Cooling ...
[ be it a refrigerator/freezer/whatever].. well, that complaint could be caused
by many things [low refrig/leak..thermostat..relay..etc] ..but the winner by far was bad airflow across the condenser..either b/c the cond. fan crapped out , the blades were broken, or the cond. fins were so plugged up with dust that the fan could not draw air through . Same deal with your car..pay attention to the condensers airflow..it's a must. Specially at stationary condition.
The Condenser is as important to your systems cooling ability as is the Evaporator..maybe even more...........