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Old 07-24-2007, 11:15 AM
gyroscopic gyroscopic is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 51
I didn't have any trouble with the wheel bearings (I hope, I've only driven on the new ones for about 1 month). You need 19 mm to get the caliper off, which for me was the hard part since I had a frozen piston and the rotor was worn - couldn't get pad out. You need a 5 mm allen wrench (somewhere on one of the guides it says 5.5 mm - I spent 4 hours looking for one of those - and it turned out to be a 5 mm anyway.)

You need a punch or two and a reasonable hammer. I rented the race driver kit from AZone and those did great for putting them back in.

Here's the killer though - the bearing seal on my 1985 300 SD is listed as one thing in all the aftermarket systems (AZone, ADV, Oreilly, PepBoys, NAPA) and it doesn't fit. Ruined two of those before I got smart and held it up to the old one. Clearly different in diameter and depth too. So I got them from the MB dealer and it went it as it should, with a little force.

Would have been a 2-3 hour job if I had known three things - the allen wrench size on my car was different from the one in the guide (http://207.210.95.34/~boostd/Maintenance/Bearing/) and hadn't searched everywhere for it. Also, had I gotten the seal from MB (they had to order 1 in) instead of aftermarket stores (they do have the right bearings, size 3 and 5 I think). And finally, that my caliper was bad and I would have removed it immediately instead of trying to pry it open.

Also, I looked all over for Red Line CV-2 grease just to feel good about it (I think it's overkill for this application), but I couldn't find it locally and it was pricey to order it online. I think I used the SynPower kind.

This all started as a brake job for me by the way.


Good luck.
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