Check the usual suspects:

Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor
Vacuum leaks (anywhere between MAS and intake valves.

Could be a bad or dirty MAS, although that would affect warm running too.

The problem is that you are too lean at start and warmup before the computer goes into closed loop mode and adjusts fuel delivery to actual oxygen content of the exhaust. the O2 sensor has to warm up before this can happen, so once it's hot, you get pretty much normal running -- but I bet it's MUCH better once you get the problem fixed.

If it "chuggs" or knocks while attempting to start hot, you have carbon tracking in the distributor cap and need to replace the camshaft seal, its letting oil into the cap, and that will sooner or later, usually sooner, cause carbon tracks to form between the posts, causing spark to show up at the cylinders at inappropriate times.

The vacuum will drive you nuts -- my BIL bought a nice BMW and then had fits with it being hard to start, stalling on takeoff (manny tranny), rough running, poor acceleration, etc.

Turned out to be a crack in the plastic air ducting between MAS and throttle body. Got it fixed, runs like a Bimmer should.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!