My car's a 140 chassis, if you're referring to your E320, I don't know for sure.

For a 300SE, the effort was not without some breakage, most notably a small crack in the shroud on the driver's side. This was as a result of trying to pull the shroud far enough forward to clear the high-pressure port. The crack isn't noticeable and won't effect performance. If I had fully disconnected the shroud at the two rivets and pushed back on the radiator first, I probably wouldn't have cracked the shroud.

Remove the grill that covers the fans. There are two plastic rivets at the top and two at the bottom. Be patient with these fellows - they're brittle and break easily.

Remove the upper radiator support - three bolts at the left and right near the hood latches, and one in the front center between the fans above the resistor pack.

Removed the 8 bolts that attach the shroud to the condenser. Three are straight across the top, two are on the left and are visible inside the arc of the fan blades. Two are on the right in the same position. One is in the center at the top behind a cap of about 1" diameter. There are two other bolts visible in the middle between the two fans (one from the left, and the other from the right side) - these hold the fans together and to the bracket that attaches to the center of the condenser - do not remove these.

I also removed two plastic rivets in the center just below the previously mentioned bolt. This will allow better flexibility for the shroud to clear the high-pressure port.

Disconnected the wiring to the fan resistors, and the leads to the fans themselves at the corners of the shroud. There are 4 retaining clips for the wires - patience will get these out without breaking them. Dismount the cable from the 3 zip-ties that hold it down to the bumper frame and work it out and around the bracket on the driver's side of the bumper. In hindsight, it would have been easier to disconnect the fan leads and their clips, and remove the resistor set as a unit without disconnecting the wires.

I also disconnected the power steering cooling tube at it's 3 attachment points. Care should be exercised here - I thought the attachment bushings needed to be separated to remove the tube - and I broke all 3 into small pieces. (Replacements are readily available at MB for about $10 for the set of 6 pieces). Even the protective grille is a cheap replacement. List is $9.25!!!. The fans are another story - $210 list, each.

Remove the driver's side tow hook cover. Reach in and feel where the shroud comes down and covers the bottom of the condenser. Move the shroud forward and backward and you should be able to feel where there's a notch in the side that wraps around the lower tube leading to (or coming from) the condenser. That notch will catch on the lower tube and prevent you from lifting the shroud out.

Push back on the radiator towards the motor - this will move the condenser, too - so don't get too aggressive. On my car, there's plenty of room between the engine-driven fan and the radiator. V8/V12 cars probably don't have as much room. Most likely the V12 isn't serviceable in this manner. V8 cars should probably have the fan removed before attempting this service.

Pull forward on the shroud until you've got clearance for the high pressure port to pass behind the shroud. Reach down and slightly rotate the edge of the shroud to allow it to clear the lower tube on the condenser and wiggle/jiggle the fan shroud until you can pull it loose.

Reinstallation is the reverse of installation - you'll have to bend/rotate the lower edge to get it back in place like you did to remove it.

Be patient and gentle and the process is doable with a minimum of fuss.

Total job - start to finish, was less than 1 hour.