You are really better off replacing the enire line, but you should do it on both sides. The emergency brake is what you adjusted, and it is a separate system, so by not using it, you did not cause the brakes to seize. It is possible that you adjusted them too tight, though. You will have to remove the caliper and rear hub to inspect it. Do you have AAA? If you have the AAA Plus you get a 50 mile tow for free. Have it towed to your house so you can work on it.

Do not try to patch a leaky line, it just introduces a new weak spot. When you dis assemble the rear brakes, check everything. It may be easier for you to just replace the rotors, pad, calipers, rubber hoses and metal lines, and inspect the e-brake shoes, as they may be fine. IIRC the metal line inner diameter is 3 or 4 mm. Take a sample to the parts store. A line flanger is pretty easy to use. It's basically a clamp with holes in it to hold the unflanged line. The "flanger" looks like a gear puller, but has a tapered head. Tightening this is what creates the flange.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D