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Update:
Thanks for replies, guys.
I have checked everything again and here are the results. I had couple of shorts in my self made engine wiring harness going to ECT sensor. O2 sensor plug was broken apart and wires were swapped. Purge valve is leaking. I have fixed everything except purge valve. Just blocked vacuum tube to it for now and have new one on order. Erased all codes with home made reader.
No new codes are stored  Car gained more power and revs quicker but there are 2 problems. 1st is that when the engine is started and its warm duty cycle stays at 50% for 30seconds and then starts to drop down to 10% and stays there +/- 5%. At 2500rpms duty cycle is jumping around 27-35% and when I let go off the gas pedal it jumps to 50% and stays there and then 1st scenario repeats. 2nd problem is that when the car idles and duty cycle is at 50% the idle is very smooth. When cycle drops to 7-10% idle gets rough, engine shakes to the point that one can feel it inside the car.
emerydc8: I have used Craftsman multimeter I bought at Sears 2 years ago for $40 and it works great. I used black lead on ground and red on pin3 in connector x11 on driver side wheel well. Did I do it right?
JimF: Thanks for lots of info you have collected on your website. I went to menu 4a and followed instruction on cleaning MAF sensor. It's drying as I type. I will check it in few minutes and update this thread.
Thanks
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1999 ML430 Silver 135k ml
Smoked LED taillights, Alpine in-dash DVD player, 12" sub, Pioneer components, 2 amps, 4200k HIDs, ML55 headlights, 20" rims, mirror LED blinkers
SOLD. 1996 E320 145k ml. Burgundy
SOLD but miss it everyday  1992 500sel Black
Chime buzzer mod,Alpine CD/MP3 player with stock amp,Euro headlights,S600 grill,20" rims, BEST CAR EVER!
SOLD. 1990 300E White
187k ml,smoked tails,Euro headlights,17rims,Intake,12" sub in first aid kit,alarm/autostart,buzzer mod
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