Sounds good, James! BTW - spacers may still be needed with the new hardware for 3 of the five rear links. The bolts are 12mm, but the hole in the rear wheel carrier is something like 13 or 14mm. The spacer reduces the clearance to near zero between the new Torx-head bolts, and the bolt hole in the carrier. While you can put it all together without the spacers, there is a possibility of some slight movement afterwards.
Also (note to others), remember that you MUST NOT tighten ANY of the links (at either end!) without the wheel carrier at the normal ride height ("ready to drive" position). Since this is basically impossible to do with the car resting on the wheels, I remove the rear spring, and use a jack to lift the rear hub up to the normal ride height (for my Sportline car, this is approx 14.25 inches from the fender lip to the hub/wheel center). With the hub in position, then you can tighten all 10 nuts for the 5 links. If you don't do this, the rubber will be under tension with the car at rest, prematurely wearing out the bushings, AND messing up the rear suspension performance (would be similar to reducing rebound damping and adding compression damping). While the same concept applies for the front suspension, this is normally "cured" when the car is aligned, since the nuts have to be loosened & re-tightened as part of the alignment procedure. This does NOT happen for the rear suspension though.
