Quote:
Originally Posted by BMG
Heres a stab.
Try following the wires from the window. THere should be a connector nearby. With car off - check for continuity/resistance.
THen perhaps unplug it and put a test light on the wires to see your getting power back there.
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I agree with the first test but I disagree with the second.
For the first test you would disconnect the connector and measure the resistance to the window side. You should measure the resistance of the window heater element. Unfortunately we don't know what it should be. Maybe around 10 ohms?
The problem with the second test is that if you have a bad connector or relay contact it might still provide a high resistance path. What this means is if you measure the voltage with the circuit unloaded (no current flowing, IE window disconnected) you could very well measure a false good voltage. But when you connect the window the voltage would dissappear.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
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