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Old 03-12-2008, 10:09 AM
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VEGASTECH777 VEGASTECH777 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Sorry for the double post

My method for doing a steering gear box reseal is this. If all you are concerned with is an external reseal so it dosnt leak fluid you can take some small shortcuts and save a lot of time. First I drive the car and if the power steering is working well ( good hydrolic response) and all Im concerned with is to get it to stop leaking then its pretty easy.
Granted you will have to remove the gear box to seal it but you wont have to totally disassemble the box to the last peice.
I always remove the steering wheel horn button assy and verify that the wheel is installed properly. The line stamped on the steering shaft should be at the top (12 o clock) This insures that the turn signal cancel will work properly. And to see this line you have to remove the steering wheel nut or tappered allen screw. Next lift the vehicle on a lift if you have access to one. Remove the steering return hose, loosen the hi press hose nut all the way, remove pitman arm (notice the line on the arm and on the pitman shaft that line up.) You will line those up again upon reassembly. With the key turned to position one you should be able to turn the steering shaft to a position where you can get to the allen bolt on the coupling. Remove it. Its a 6mm allen socket. Sometimes with a univerasal on a long 3/8" extension. If you can get it with just the allen and the extension even better. Hit the extension a couple of times to ease the removal of the allen bolt. If you strip it your in a world of hurt. So I always use WD40 and put the allen socket and extension in the allen bolt and nail it hard once or twice before removal. Once removed I like to put a small chissel in the coupling slot and hit it to spread open the coupling a little. I usually leave the chissel in there for now. Have a helper hold the steering gear box and remove the 3 large chassis to box bolts. When you pull out the 3rd bolt tell you helper to get ready for the weight of the box and not to be a pussy about it either. You dont want that heavy gear box falling on your foot! It weighs probably 25-30lbs! If the box dosnt come out right away you need to use a pry bar to get the gear box out and away from the steering coupling. Once again be sure to hold that box! Now you should have the steering gear box out of the car.
Cover the fluid holes and do a good external cleaning of the box to get all the dirt and grit off. Blow it dry and you can now move to your work bench to start the reseal.
Work one section at a time. Remove the 4 bolts at the bottom of the box and completely remove the seal holder. Replace the large oring inside and the external seal using snap ring pliers and a flat screw driver and a seal pick. Lube it with vasoline and put it back on. Now move to the top where the steering shaft couples to the box. Remove the snap ring and carfully with a small flat screw driver pop out the small seal and replace it. In cases where it dosnt want to come out drill a real small hole only in the seal itself and screw a smal phillips screw in it and use a pair of pliers to pull it out. Well you get the idea now lube and install the new seal with the new snap ring supplied in the seal kit. Now you see the 4 bolts on the top plate? Remove those and slowly turn the steering shaft a little and this will help the plate rise up just enough to remove the large o ring and repalce it also using some vasoline replace the tiny oring that is just under that top plate and make sure it lines up where it belongs. Now screw back the other way and reinstall the 4 bolts. On the sides of the gear box you will see one circlip and a plug about 3/4' diameter. remove the circlip and with 2 flat screw drivers pry out the plug. There you will see a oring in the grove, replace it and put the plug back in with te new clip. Lets ee what am I forgetting? Oh yes there is a bolt on the bottom of the gear box that has a seal washer and when you pull it out and have the steering gear exactly in the centered position you will see an indentaion on the piston inside the box. This is there so you can put a pointed holding tool in there to center the box while you reinstall it to the car. You can simply sharpen an 8mm thread bolt at the tip to a pointed end and use it as your centering tool. This locks the box in the centered position for easier install. later remove that bolt and reinstall the plug that you took out with a new seal washer. Im falling asleep at my PC as I write this...I hope this helps you guys. I know its not the greatest explanation and Im sure I may have miseed something. But you can get the general idea. I had a long night and a good one at that!!!! The date stayed over and fun was in excess. Amazing what a tiny chip of a Cealis can do! haha Oh well Ill check back later once Ive gotten some sleep. Take care....
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