I found the reason for my window fuse blowing and causing both driver's side windows not to work. Remember how I mentioned that the wires for the window switch are built like sparkplug wires and each one plugs unto its male counterpart (on the underside of the window switch) individually, and you can unplug the wires one by one since they are not like 3 or 4 wires going into one connector and then that connector plugs unto the underside of the window switch? Well, I found similar car and noted which wire color goes to which pole. I got home and noticed that one of the brown wires was plugged on the wrong pole. I moved it to the center (cut off switch) where it belongs and the window has been working everytime without blowing the fuse anymore. Only issue to resolve now is that pressing the switch for window up results in window down, and pressing window down is actually window up. I just need to identify which two wires to move around. Unfortunately, the car I looked at was an '84 and mine is an '85. Wire colors were slightly different. Do you know which color to relocate?
I am still working on getting the coolant fan to come on when car is hot. I bought a Behr 2 prong sensor for $40 and installed it. I let car warm up from cold and when the magnet clicked and fan came on, temp on the dash was slightly past 80. I cut off car and let it cool down. The next day I cranked the car, i noticed that the dash temp reading was going close to 100. I checked and fan was not engaged. I let it get up to 110 and close to 120 before shutting down the car. I have tried a couple spare used fan switch and fan never comes on, regardless of temp displayed on the dash. I can unplug the 2 pin connector at the sensor, jumper both wires and get the fan to come on immediately. So the fault is with the sensors not closing and letting power reach the magnet. Since the sensor is non returnable, that's $40 down the drain. I have tried 4 used sensors and fan still don't get power. I will unplug the connector and check and each time, there is power on one side of the wire. Jump them and fan comes on right away. I am doing a flush and fill, then new sensor on the cold engine before cranking and let it get hot. Coolant level is fine since the low coolant sensor warns me when it is low. I would top it up and confirm that it is full before putting the cap back on and letting engine warm up to 105 or so before turning it off. I have collected one more sensor off a car in the salvage yard and will swap it in when I get home this evening. I hate to buy another $40 sensor I can't return. Does anyone know why the fan worked once on a new sensor and hasn't ever since? Where is the normal mark for the fan to come on? 80 is around the 8 o'clock mark. There is a 9 o'clock line around the 100 mark. The 120 mark is around the 10 o'clock mark. past that is the red line. I would expect a normal working sensor to come on and keep it around the 9 o'clock mark, right? Please help!

Greg