Thanks for all the suggestions and sorry my reply got lost. Not much time these days and the problem still reigns. 3000 rpm max with 4 psi from turbo.

Friday I talked with a MB mechanic who was kind enough to walk me through all possible problems he could think of. After some talk he wants me to disconnect the exhaust pipe to check if there is carbon backup in the muffler system and also to check the fuel tank screen filter.

We discussed degree BTDC, compression stroke position, drip method (by the book- 1 drop per second), setting the IP on the marks, introduction of IP at 24 degrees, and checking the throttle linkage. After passing on these he suggested to drop the exhaust pipe and to order the socket to remove the tank screen.

Today I dropped the exhaust pipe and have the same results. Now I start making new tools to deal with the IP fine tuning while engine running and a remote fuel tank with new prefilter.

I had time today to make and use the new IP adjustment tool but any rotation of the IP while engine running had no or little detectable change. Still 3000 rpm max with 4 psi from turbo.

Tomorrow I will hook up the new remote fuel tank with new prefilter to bypass the fuel tank screen.

For all that asked questions for how this got started: A year and a half ago I bought this car with blown engine and bought a long block without IP. Later I was able to buy the IP which was on the long block. There was a year’s time between getting the engine and the IP so I had already installed the original engine’s IP with the new long block. Now this was the first time for me to do a MB diesel engine exchange. For the IP install I had to take verbal instructions and get a drip tube with elevated fuel can and plug for the return fuel hose from the IP. This was all new and it did seem a little crazy hanging a can of fuel and ‘wrenching’ the IP back and forth to try for 1 drop per second from this hand made drip tube. Being warned not to mess with the IP or it could cost big $$$ and would have to be exported to someone’s BIG O bosch flow bench. And oh yeah, unscrew the # 1 pipe connection and remove compression spring and delivery valve and then reinstall the pipe connector with drip tube. Now I can see that getting involved with this was a little stressful especially if you throw in that it all took place in my brother’s garage 500 miles from home. Thankfully the car started with no problem but drove sluggishly from dead start. It would however get up to speed and was fine on the highway. I just thought it needed some throttle adjustments which I could do at home later. Clutter, you know clutter don’t you, got in my way and the car sat for a year and more until now. I had trailered the car home and let it sit. I have only just driven the car about 500 miles on the freeway and found low MPG-22 and a knocking from the engine. By this time I could hardly remember what I had done with the IP timing and that’s where I am today. Frankly just freaked that the knock and the IP may be linked to my initial engine exchange and that is how this got started.

After some time out to think, forget and much more than a few cups of coffee, I decided to re-install the original IP back onto the now running so-so engine. It is hard as hale while in the car.
Can you see the 13 mm mounting bolt at the back of IP? Know what I mean Vern? Just look down the pit between the filter can and the IP backplane. No? Get a bigger spotlight. Now where’s that 13 mm wrench? How bout a socket? No, a box wrench. No, that tilting head 13mm ratchet. No, get the liquid wrench. No, not the WD-40. the liquid wrench. GO GET THE LIQUID WRENCH!!! No, not that little aerosol cylinder, the liquid wrench. The two oxy-acetelyn cylinders!!! Oh well, just melted the vacuum control plastic connector.

Actually it gets easier after two or three times. Just don’t put the rear mounting bolt back till she runs like hale.

Will let you all know what happens with my new remote fuel tank test tomorrow. Hope is running thin and diesel seems much thicker these days.