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Hi guys,
Here are few pictures from engine wiring harness rebuild and ETA wiring rebuild.
Engine harness was VERY time consuming and ETA was easier because there are less wires to work with but space and wire lengths are limited. I had to pull circuit board off but it only gave me 3/4" of extra wire length. I unsoldered all wires including motor wires on the left to get board free. BUT the actual soldering openings have pins of some kind around opening perimeter. So when I tried to suck old solder out the opening with de-soldering tool it did not clean the opening completely. It was very difficult to feed new wires through opening because you only have 3/4" wires to work with and they are kind of stiff. I used small needle nose pliers to hold and force the some wire inside openings heating the opening at the same time. I overheated one wire a bit and insulation on it melted, but my luck was that it was a ground wire and it didn't touch anything when assembled. Bottom line is I would not recommend doing this job to anyone who has less than average to high average soldering skills. I would recommend opening the wire jacket and ETA itself (if possible and you can take it out the car and put it back in. There is a vacuum hose that is on the way when you try to install ETA back in along with paper gasket that always moves when ETA is touched. And I tied return spring with thin but strong wire and pulled it out when I needed to snap it onto return linkage) to make sure that you need to replace wires before you start de-soldering old wires out. Most upsetting fact was that my wires were perfectly fine when I opened ETA (no cracks in insulation at all) but since I had new wiring already I just changed them. I used 40 watt soldering iron. My 30 watt one did not melt soldering fast enough so I went to radio shack and bought 40 wall iron.
Engine harness was pretty straight forward. It just takes a lot of patience because you have to do one wire at the time and there is a nest of wires all around.
And today my ASR light came on 5 times again with no throttle response. I will order new Neutral Switch. It act funny. It only will trip ASR light when I press the gas pedal less than a 1/4 in. I recycle ignition and it woulg go away for a bit. Last time I left the car in 3rd and it never came back on. I put it in drive and it never came back on. I will change the switch anyway. It would be cheaper than ETA anyhow and for the time being when ASR will come on I'll try to keep the car in 3rd and see if ASR will ever come on. It might be a way to catch a problem.
Ill keep you posted with my findings
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1999 ML430 Silver 135k ml
Smoked LED taillights, Alpine in-dash DVD player, 12" sub, Pioneer components, 2 amps, 4200k HIDs, ML55 headlights, 20" rims, mirror LED blinkers
SOLD. 1996 E320 145k ml. Burgundy
SOLD but miss it everyday  1992 500sel Black
Chime buzzer mod,Alpine CD/MP3 player with stock amp,Euro headlights,S600 grill,20" rims, BEST CAR EVER!
SOLD. 1990 300E White
187k ml,smoked tails,Euro headlights,17rims,Intake,12" sub in first aid kit,alarm/autostart,buzzer mod
Last edited by Victor300E; 05-30-2008 at 01:52 AM.
Reason: editing some info
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