Car is in the signature.
I'm gonna put all of my questions in one place, as I have a few...
This is my first time doing the brakes on any car. I have tools, and I'm competent, but still in the learning process. I'd like to change the brake pads, rotors, and flush the brake lines. When I bought the car (December '07), I had to pass the safety inspection for the state of MD. The brakes passed fine, however, the rotors were on the thin side (I guess the PO had them turned). The independent mechanic that I had do the tie rods and valve adjustment / fuel filters said they'd need to be done within 5k miles. I'm not a frequent driver, having barely gotten 2k since then...however, there is a bit of a cyclic rattle / scraping sound on the front right brake - like it makes a sound once every revolution. I believe it's the brake, because it doesn't make a sound when I apply the brakes (the car brakes fine...verified by two independent mechanics). Maybe some type of runout on the rotor? Irregardless, it drives me nuts and I'd like to fix it. If I change the rotors and pads, it should go away, right?
So far as I've heard, there are two types of calipers on these vehicles, ATE and Bendix. What's the easiest way to tell them apart? Is there anything that is specific to either system?
The parking brake pretty much...doesn't work. I want to fix that too. Currently, you depress the petal, however it doesn't engage. I've tried at moderate speed (20 mph) and I can't even feel it. Which parts should I be replacing? The fastlane parking brake shoes have additional hardware, so that looks good. Should I pick up new cables for the brake? Which ones should I get..?
Continuing on...I haven't the foggiest idea of what to look for when purchasing pads or rotors. What's the difference in the discs on fastlane? I don't think I need vented rotors in the rear, but, why the large difference in price for the fronts? Any quality differences? The rears seem to be very close in price...any difference there?
Pads...I haven't the foggiest. I don't drive much...and I don't use my brakes a lot, when I do, however, I like responsive brakes. No clue what to look for here.
Are there any parts I should change while I'm in there? Pins, springs, bolts, etc?
When I bleed the brakes, how much fluid will I need? The 3/4 liter container (DOT4) looks like plenty, however I have no idea.
From what I've read bleeding is a two person job. Start at the furthest brake, start to bleed and have the other person "pump the brake pedal" until it comes out clean...then move to the next brake? Do you constantly add new fluid to the reservoir as the you bleed the brakes? What's the best way to catch the old fluid? I have a feeling it's gonna be pretty naasty.
What kinds of tools do I need? I've got a full set of wrenches, sockets, access to an impact wrench (impact sockets, maybe...I'll buy a couple if I need to), floor jack and jack stands. I'll probably have a torque wrench by the time I get the brake parts in. Which range (of torques) would be appropriate for this job?
If there's anything I've missed, feel free to point it out (especially if you have little tricks to make the job easier). Also, if somebody has described how to do this in a post, and I've missed it, point me there and I'll read up.
Thanks for the help!
