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123=rust
Unfortunately the 240D is a complete loss due to rust as is my silver 1980 300D, which runs like a top with 260kl miles on it! I have a solid 1981 300D that I am also tempted to use but the level of comfort between the 123 and 124 is night and day different. Plus I don't have a title for the 300D, which could be remedied more cheaply than putting the 123 tranny in a 124 I suppose! A 123 has other advantages including lighter, narrower wheels and a lighter body overall but the 124 is a more solid car and has zero rust. The conversion will cost $13k when all is said and done. I want the best car possible at the end as a result and I just like the 124 better. It's fire engine red, has an immaculate interior and everything works internally.
Does anyone know if the 123 manual is sized substantially differently than the 124 automatic? I can mount the motor as far forward as I need to since the mounts will be custom fabricated and it is much shorter than the existing engine. What are the chances I can use the entire driveline from the flywheel to the differential from the 123 with the 124 diff? Clearance in the tunnel under the car is my main concern so we can make sure the driveline is properly aligned. If the 123 tranny is substantially shorter with a shorter propshaft, it may sit too far back. If it is much wider around, it may have to sit too low.
Thanks,
Rich
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Rich Mason
Chapel Hill, NC
1990 300D 285k miles
1993 VW Cabriolet converted to 1.6 TD
1985 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD
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