I'm gonna see if I can remember each point...

The engine doesn't really take THAT long to warm up, but the roughness doesn't seem to correspond to coolant temp. So when I was saying it warms up I meant sufficiently for the roughness to go away. The coolant temp has been warm for a while at that point.

I've checked, rechecked, ad nuseum the glow plugs. This problem persists well beyond the time GP's would affect. (as noted by others here)

I disagree on the oil pressure. 17 PSI on a warm engine at idle is what I've read many times on this forum. That's over 1 Bar.

I will admit I'm skeptical of cracking injectors open to use as a diagnosis of anything other than bleeding air. (I'm confident I don't have an air issue, but that was a good point. I have sections of clear line.) I've pretty much got nothing to lose by trying.

So I'm wondering if it's injectors are we saying that they aren't popping at the right time or fully, or bad spray pattern or something? I've seen injectors out of my old 123. They don't look like they'd be hard to rebuild.

Bill

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'87 300SDL, intensely modified Greasecar setup, with nickle plated heat exchanger, 3 valve setup, 312,000 miles
'95 Suburban diesel, Greasecar basics, 16 plate heat exchanger, mercedes fuel lines, Racor filter
'85 Renault Alliance converted full electric vehicle