Quote:
Originally Posted by ke6dcj
Thanks Arthur.
I should be able to use the output from the A/C high-pressure switch to activate the "low-speed" auxiliary fan, correct ?
If that's the case, then a little wiring harness should get this going, correct ?
:-) neil
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Sure ..but remember , the low fan is accomplished using the Resistor in series.
The high fan circuit simply by-passes the Resistor to give the same fan HIGH speed.
That is how the 2 speeds are gotten from the same motor.
So, if you want low fan with a/c pressure activated , the stock set up does exactly that. The only high fan circuit in that car is Coolant temp sensed.
The a/c sw is listed as a temp sw . but it is , in fact, a pressure activated switch...
One often overlooked problem with a no low fan complaint is if the a/c system is actually slightly LOW on refrigerant..so guys think the fan circuit is bad, when in actuality, the high side never achieves High side pressure sufficient enough to trigger the switch's cut-in specification. So, you have BOTH inadequate cooling due to short refrig level AND no fan for the same reason. But . thwe AC still woks..but not real well....
That is why I have guys jumper the high side sw right off the bat to verify the integrity of that circuit,[ minus the actual sw/freon level.]
Common mistake.
Allways jumper the pigtail leads from the high side sw before doing anything when you have a NO LOW FAN complaint..That will tell you exactly where you stand right off the bat...takes all of 2 seconds....

And if you get the low fan to trigger as it is intended to, you will have air-flow on the condenser when it is required ..and a/f is more inmportant than any other condition when the system has High Termal Load from traffic/idle / or high humid /temps/ambients.. and don't overlook using a high fan for condenser ..guys in Fl do it all the time , including me.
As far as a low fan with comp , I would not worry about it, the high side sw is preferred method. [ Check any new car..they all went w/comp activation]
The main point is, better a/f results in better cooling and freon level is detrimental on performance....R12 is best..and the standard sw that your car came with should be adequate for cut-in if high side pressures are correct.
Another trick guys use is to simply run 2 wires across the high pressure sw and bring them in the cabin to a simple toggle sw..this gives the driver full control BEFORE ambients start to creep...you know when you are coming into traffic , or towing a boat, or it's real hot out..way before the sensors do..so you can get a jump on it..but that is just for guys who understand..the Wifie does not want to hear about it !!!!!
The advantage here is this is in parellel with the stock set-up, so if you do not use it, the system stays stock, electrically..but you have the OPTION of Manually by-passing the stock set-up with the flick of a switch...also nice if you ever get into an overheat condition..you have some control over the radiator airflow manually..kinds nice, and a very popular addition for BenzHeads from way back ....
I will send you the schamatic if you want ..it is simple and very basic...