X2 - one of the other dangers of an improperly adjusted clutch is that in addition to stripping the gears it can also over-stress the mounting points for the cable shell. When the sunroof stuck on mine the clutch was adjusted too tightly and it pulled so hard on the cable shell that it broke the mounting tabs off of it where it bolts to the back of the roof strut that runs across the roof (above the headliner). You can tell if the mounting tabs are broken if you remove the headliner panel of the sunroof and open/close the roof. If the cable shell behind the sunroof opening moves forward when opening the sunroof, or moves backwards when closing it, the mounting tabs are probably broken. If yours has that problem as well, send me a PM, I came up with a fairly easy way to fix it that doesn't require removing the headliner (and removing the rear window to get the headliner out).

The clutch adjustment is a 17mm nut (I believe that was the size - maybe it was a 16mm) on the shaft of the motor/gearbox assembly. To actually get to it you have to first remove the plastic cover that has the hex-head end on it - the part that put the wrench on in order to manually crank the roof open or closed. The clutch nut should be adjusted just tight enough to move the roof without slipping, but when it reaches either the fully open or fully closed position the motor should NOT stall - it should continue to turn - just at a slower speed due to the drag of the clutch.

BTW, I don't know what others are using, but I found that white spray lithium grease works very well for lubing the tracks.

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown