Quote:
Originally Posted by RCH89190E
Sorry, it's an 89 MB 190 E. Don't think it's the switch, just replaced it. I put a voltage meter on the contact with the switch wire attached and it shows a 12 volt load when the power is on and shows the same when the switch is pushed. I dabbed a little all purpose grease in the regulator tracks and that didn't help. It still needs help with a hand to open and close. ???????????? Tomorrow I am going to try running a jump wire from the console switch to the hot lead of the window motor switch on the door. This should bypass any "regulator" that is lowering the voltage.
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I think what you are saying is you put your volt meter probes across the switch contacts and read 12V whether the switch was pushed or not? Is that correct? Or did you do a different test? If that is what you did then that shows your switch is bad. One test you can do is jumper over the switch with a piece of wire. If the window works then it shows the switch is bad. A schematic would be nice however...
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
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