Very good..
Just thought I would mention that b/c I have seen it over-looked by so many
posters , only to later find that was the problem after they spent big $$$$ on everything else............
You prob just need to up the window % , but just don't want to do that if one just has a simple repair causing the adap to get out of line...........
The trick is ...is the adapt just basically normal for a used engine, or is the trim out of line b/c of a vac leak or a fuel pressure/injector, etc issue.
That chassis has a small % window, so it may well be it just needs some more leeway...that would be Jims upping the window % mod.
Later cars had a larger window to compenstae for more trims w/o a warning lamp or code, so that tells you something.
One other simple test I would do if the lamp comes back and related to FP is a FP test.
The FP is regulated by a diaphragm in that Regulator that is actualted by engine vac. So, a FP test consist of pressure with the vac line connected and with it disconnected. The higher reading is w/o vac line..the test is to see if the pressure DROPS in spec when the line is put back ON. If there is no difference , then the reg is bad and the excess to spec will cause the car to run rich, thereby bringing on a trim code .
So, look up the specs for your car on a FP chart. There will be 3 different specs to check:
1-FP w/o vac line attached [highest]
2- FP w/vac line attached [ lowest and working pressure].. this is the most important spec., as that is what the injectors see, and if too high, adaptations come into play.
3 - car OFF ---FP should HOLD for at least 30 MIN

These 3 test will tell all and are quite easy to do and should be done before any other test with your complaint.
If youy have a gauge and can not get the specs for that chassis , I will post them [ or archieves]

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A Dalton