Ryan:

The only thing I've done that I can help you with is the rear subframe mounts. They come out fairly easily.

Just take the large bolt out, take of the bracket that extends to the rear floorpan, and pry the old bushing out. Usually not a problem, as they are protected from oil and dirt and usually shrink with age.

Lubricate the new bushing with silicone spray (tire shine, armorall, etc) or dishwashing detergent -- not grease or oil! and then push it in as far as you can with a floor jack or prybar. The bolt will pull the bushing the rest of the way in once it starts.

Replace the brackets and washers, etc, tighten the bolt, and you are done.

I've replaced the diff mount in my 220D, but I'm not sure what the setup is in a W126. I assume it is similar, so here goes -- put the car on jackstands, hold the diff up with a jack (it weighs a ton!), remove the mounts, replace them -- take care that the bolt holes are clean, I sheared a bolt on mine. Should be pretty ovbious. The bushings on top are more difficult (I need to replace them on my 300D) -- you have to drop the diff to get to them. Use a jack, don't try to hold it up by arm strength.

For shocks I recommend Bilsteins -- I used aftermarkets on the 220D and it rides like a truck. Don't use cheapies, you will hate the car. When you replace them, only tighten the top nuts to give one thread clear of the top nut -- there are two. If you run them down till they are tight, the car rides too hard.

Use MB pads only -- they will give you the best stopping performance and longest rotor life (not all that long anyway). Aftermarkets last longer, but usually squeal to wake the dead and eat rotors.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!