Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels
I think that would not do the job. It regulates pressure to keep pressures higher than what you set from going through the regulator. The boost controller is a simple ball check valve and a spring that is adjustable so that it does not open until a certain pressure is reached.
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OK, I get it, now that I think about it, you're right, these two devices basically work opposite each other - one only lets pressure through UP TO a set pressure, and the other lets NO pressure through UNTIL the set pressure is reached. Makes perfect sense.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels
I got one and set it to 14 psi using my mitivac. I installed it and a boost gauge and a pyro in my 300SDL and it worked fine. Before I installed it, I was lucky to get 6 psi before the wastegate opened. the difference in performance was very noticeable. The EGTs were not bad either topping at about 800 degrees with the amount of fuel available. I never set the IP for more fuel.
I am going to duplicate this setup in the SDL.
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Now THAT's what I'm looking for. I'm not looking to make mine a tire-smoking fire-breathing dragster, but if a little more performance is readily available at a small cost with no major economy hit, I'm all for it. It didn't ruin your fuel, economy, did it? Did it improve your boost at lower RPMs? Make the boost come on any earlier?
I have a air pressure gauge that will work well for a boost gauge, and a dual pillar gauge pod, now I just have to get a pyro, and one of these controllers and I'm all set. Thanks for the feedback!
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock
1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown