[QUOTE=Diesel911;2096024]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo
Take a good look at the O-ring between the Master Cylinder and the Booster as a source of a Vacuum Leak.
Last year I installed a rebuilt Master Cylinder (Kragens Auto Parts). After installation the pedal was kind of spongy and went down further than I would have liked before it started braking.
Over the last 1 1/2 year I have tried bleeding the system 3 times with no improvement. It was not good but dependable until last Monday when the pedal went almost to the floor. (Of course I so far cannot find the receipt to get an exchange under warranty.)
I decided to install a new Master Cylinder instead of a rebuilt. I now have an excellent pedal function an braking.
My problem all along was the poorly rebuilt Master Cylinder.
If bleeding the system 2 times does not cure the pedal "fade" I would suspect the Master Cylinder even if it had been recently replaced.
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Yes, in regard to the "brake fading", thats what I suspected even thought the MS was recently installed, if another bleeding doesn't cure the fading, we'll try another MS.
As to the booster, we'll check for fluid inside, check the "O" ring and make sure we are not losing vacuum before it gets to the booster.
I was also thinking of pulling a good booster & MS from one of my parts cars then I'd have them for future needs if they verified our suspicions.
My friend is a plumber that has helped my out on several occasions over the years, a valuable relationship to cultivate. Every DYI home builder/owner needs to know a good plumber and an electrician
Thanks for the input
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug
"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"