PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum - View Single Post

LUVMBDiesels · #12 02-20-2009, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D

Hmmm, on your scale then the rust heap I dragged home to turn into my wife's #2 condition car would be at about a "7" or, "Why in the name of Bojangles did you drag that from the bottom of the swamp"?

Seriously, buy the best car you can and keep it maintained. Restoration will not pay off on 98% of any old auto. You might find a very nice one which just needs cosmetics hidden away somewhere but then again, you might get struck by a piece of falling space debris. The odds are about the same.

Believe me, I have had some sixes and sevens follow me home too...
The amount of work you put into your wife's car proves my point. It takes a ton more work and money to get a car into #2 condition than it takes to get it into #3 shape.

Here is the official list of conditions:

Classification #1
EXCELLENT CONDITION:
Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95-plus point show car that is not driven. In national show judging a car in Number 1 condition is likely to win top honors in its class. In a sense, it has ceased to be an automobile and has become an object of art. It is transported to shows in an enclosed trailer and when not being shown it is stored in a climate-controlled facility. It is not driven. There are very few Number 1 vehicles.

Classification #2
FINE CONDITION:
Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also, an extremely well maintained original showing very minimal wear. Except for the very closest inspection, a Number 2 vehicle may appear as a Number 1. The Number 2 vehicle will take the top award in many judged shows, except when squared off against a Number 1 example in its own class. It may also be driven 800-1,000 miles each year to show, on tours, and simply for pleasure.

Classification #3
VERY GOOD:
Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus, combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components, or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable NOS parts. This is a "20-footer". That is, from 20 feet away it may look perfect. But as we approach it, we begin to notice that the paint may be getting a little thin in spots from frequent washing and polishing. Looking inside we might detect some wear on the driver's seat, foot pedals and carpeting. The chrome trim, while still quite presentable, may have lost sharp, mirror-like reflective quality it had when new. All systems and equipment on the car are in good operating order. In general, most of the vehicles seen at car shows are Number 3's.

Classification #4
GOOD:
A driveable vehicle needing no, or only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration, or a very poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be "excellent", but the car is mostly useable "as is". This is a driver. It may be in the process of restoration or its owner may have big plans, but not even from 20 feet away, there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help.

Classification #5
RESTORABLE:
Needs complete restoration of body, chassis and interior. May or may not be running, but isn't weathered, wrecked and/or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts. This car needs everything. It may not be operable, but it is essentially all there and has only minor surface rust – if any rust at all. While presenting a real challenge to the restorer, it won't have him doing a lot of chasing for missing parts.

Classification #6
PARTS CAR:
May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts. This is an incomplete or greatly deteriorated, perhaps rusty, vehicle that has value only as a parts donor for other restoration projects.