Thanks Arthur. I really appreciate it and let me ask you a question about the excellent link you pointed me to that might be useful to others contemplating this job.

I am pretty sure I am with the author all the way until I get to this part about retarding the intake gear. "most importantly, the cam, while in its mark, is retarded in the adjuster." is the part I don't get. When I put the chain back in place I am thinking that the tension will be off the chain and it won't be that big a deal to put the chain on either wheel and line up the paint marks I made that link the chain to the sprockets. How would I retard the intake gear and how would I know how much to retard if I could? Is this all about not leaving any slack in the chain? Or leaving slack on the wrong side of the sprockets? I would have thought that the tensioner would take care of that?

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee

"GEAR ASSEMBLY
I've described how to get the sequence of assembling the gear on the intake cam right a number of times over the phone. The easiest way for me to explain it here goes like this: Forget the chain for the moment and place both cams on their doweled marks. Take the intake gear and turn it clockwise, looking straight at it from the front (don't move the cam).

In this position, the cams are on the marks, the crank should have stayed there from first disassembly and, most importantly, the cam, while in its mark, is retarded in the adjuster. If the chain were in pieces, you could just drape it over and pin it and you'd be set. It can't be assembled in this way, since we don't break the chain in the operation.

This example is conceptual to describe the effective positioning of all parts. During actual assembly, you must get the chain on the gear, have it pulled tight on the driver's side and be sure that the cam is retarded to match the concept above.
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