Quote:
Originally Posted by Piotr
Bogdan, your English is fine. However, please turn off the Caps Lock on your computer. On the internet it looks like you are shouting.
As to the reserve light, I would look at the point where the wires plug into the sending unit. The light comes on when the float is at the bottom at closes the electric circuit. if the gauge shows the right amount, it cannot be the float, unless there is a loose piece of wire shorting the circuit.
As my problem-thanx, guys. the sending unit is the original. the gauge is not jumpy, but I notice that if I drive for a long didtance, the gauge is "less wrong" until a sharp turn or breaking. Then after the needle "dips", it does not come back. That seems to indicate a problem with the float. If it's an empty sealed plastic box, a pinhole could be a problem (simply siiting too low). However, the reserve light comes on when it should and NOT before, as it would with the low float. as you see, mixed symptoms- very frustrating!
BTW, I DID clean the contacts on the float.
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Hmm, I
just had my sending unit apart and took a minute to learn how everything works in there. Sounds to me like the float is binding a little bit on the way back up. You may have bent the thicker wire that goes to the reserve contacts while putting it back together. I busted the solder joint (for the 3rd time
) unknowingly, and the gauge left me stranded
again today so I took it apart and fixed it again. Thank god this is an easy job on a w123.
Did you use any fine abrasives on the resistive wires the float rides on? Another thing to look at is the way the wire rides through the float contacts, on mine I found that it readily slipped out of the contacts in the float and still made contact, but not much. Finally I got it down to a very linear and smooth resistance change from end to end on the ohmeter.
Sometimes it's just the little (tiny) things
Best of luck
Nick