Quote:
Originally Posted by Cr from Texas
I suspect the PO or his mechanic tried to stop a leak the same way you did and damaged the bolts. They've got to come out. The cover has to come off and hope there is enough left to get a grip on to remove (probably not). If not, the remaining bolt has to be drilled and extracted. I like to use left hand bits and this often will remove the bolt. If not, it leaves a hole into which you insert an extractor. Doing a steel bolt out of aluminum is doable but not a recommended learning job. You can easily have the bit slip and drill into the aluminum. Then you'll end up using a helicoil or something similar.
To avoid this, I never grip the end of the rachet handle when working with aluminum. Hold your hand over the rachet assembly to avoid applying too much torque or use a torque wrench. The first one I broke (in 1962) was because I read the inch-pound value as foot-pounds.
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With good luck he will have enough sticking out to unscrew what is left.
What I have found that is extremely important when using Ezee-Outs is drilling the hole in the center of the Bolt/Stud and using the correct sized drill to match the Ezee-Out you are using. (Center Punch the hole before drilling and if you have thinner drill bits; drill a piolet hole with the thinner drill first.)
As stated by the time you drill the hole with a Left Handed Drill Bit the torque and heat created by the drilling will often loosen it and even spin it out.
Also the Ezee-outs that have a spiral or screw like appearance can expand a hard to turn out bolt.
(I have not used the newer self drilling types so I do not know how well they work)
Here is a pic of some spiral and some square Ezee-Outs.