Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t
I was able to work on the mule last night and get it all back together. ... After degreasing it for 2 hrs and spraying out with garden hose for 15 min, it was a lot cleaner, but still has debris in between the coils.
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Compressed air, and/or a nylon brush, can help to get more debris out of the condenser. If the radiator is removed, perform the same treatment on it as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t
I also installed the new res and coolant level sensor.
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Smart move - the new reservoir has a silica pack to help control corrosion. Make sure you only use MB or Zerez G-05 "yellow" antifreeze when re-filling. In a hot climate where freeze protection isn't critical, use less... maybe only 2-4 quarts of a/f (for a 20%-40% mix). I add the a/f first, plus a full bottle of Water Wetter, then fill up the rest of the way with distilled water. Don't re-start the car until you can feel liquid in the upper radiator hose. If you can't feel liquid up there... the system isn't filled properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t
And tried to install the new lower rad hose but World Pac sent a hose that didn’t fit (just like the upper hose they sent me a year back). Took another hr to dismantle everything to reinstall the old rubber lower rad hose. Not happy bout that… guess I will have to go to dealer and buy 1.
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Some items simply are NOT worth buying aftermarket. My '95 E420 came with aftermarket radiator hoses installed. The upper hose touched the p/s reservoir. I replaced it with a new OE/dealer hose which was curved properly and didn't touch the reservoir. Unfortunately, it's often a trial & error method to determine which items you can buy OEM/aftermarket to save a few bucks, and which items should always be purchased OE/dealer. If you need a lead on buying dealer stuff at wholesale, drop me a line.
Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t
I will drive it for next few weeks and let you know how it does. Its pretty hot today so I should be able to get on it going home from work, see if it hits 120C again…
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It better not. BTW, does your electric fan kick on high at 105°C? If not, you really should replace the switch, I used the gray one on my car (
click here). If the engine still runs hot (anything over 105°C outside of Death Valley indicates a problem)... how old is the radiator, and how old is the water pump?
Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t
Oh 1 question – wheres the hose on top of res (at the cap) go to? Mine broke (actually crumbled) when I tried to remove it off old res. I will have to replace, but it looks like it goes toward passenger cabin somewhere? Is is bad to run engine with this disconnected? I had to cut off the end and its sorta/kinda reconnected but too short so I need another 1.
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That hose goes to the overflow catch tank in the wheel well - if you remove the plastic splash panel inside the fender, you'll see it. When the cooling system gets extremely hot (say, 120°C) the coolant may overflow into this tank. When it cools, it pulls the liquid back into the system. Just find some hose of the proper I.D. and splice it into the existing hose... it should turn soft after it goes through the firewall partition. This is a common problem.
