Quote:
Originally Posted by ladfalat
Well, if this wasn't the easiest repair ever. Removal of one bolt from the lower steering shaft (from under the car) allows the lower steering shaft to be pushed into the interior of the car, enough to remove and replace the boot. As others have pointed out, the steering wheel needs to be moved all the way out. The part was $6.25 at the dealer. Installation is a snap; slip it on from below, collapse the wide end of the boot to feed through the firewall, then push in place from the footwell. I'm guessing the boot was made to stay stationary relative to the firewall, and the steering shaft rotates within it. When sufficient lubrication between the shaft and boot is lost (especially in the winter), the boot gets twisted leading to rapid deterioration. We don't notice it because of the belly pan under the transmission. I suspect a lot of these boots are torn, just like mine. Funny thing, Herb Gordon Mercedes (a large DC area dealer) didn't stock it, had to order it. But again, $6.25 and under an hour. Check your steering shaft boots, ladies and gentlemen. You may find that the engine did not get louder over the years, just the boot is torn.
Now if I could only trace my diesel drips. Replaced o-rings in the prefilter, but still have drips hanging onto all the fuel lines. Are the fuel lines supposed to be so hard? Time to retube it all.
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Yeah, it is amazing how much quieter the interior of my car got after I replaced mine...glad you were successful with the repair and had less trouble than me in seating the new boot. I also forgot to mention the grease on the lower end does allow it to turn. I used a special stuff made by Genie screw type garage door openers which stays thin and slippery at very low temps. The old grease they used during assembly probably turned to glue in the cold after a few years. Maybe those from the southern climates see an extended life of this boot for that reason.
As for your fuel line issues...if they are dark and brittle just replace them all. The parts are cheap and you can do all but one without having to pull the IM off. The one which you need to pull the IM for is the one which gets bolted into the back of the IP at one end with a banjo bolt. Be sure you get the o-ring for that end too - you need to ask for it.
If I were doing it I would do all but that one and wait until I had another reason to pull the IM (like to change a GP) then do it unless it was the one which is currently leaking, in which case, bite the bullet and pull the IM.