My car has pretty much all 17 and 19 mm hex heads and nuts on suspension links. Only one bolt on the forward most link (I think) had a hex key head on it - I had a key that fit (a blind poke) enough to hold it as I turned the nut.

I needed *every* combination of wrenches, short and deep sockets, extension lengths, swivel joints, wobble extensions, etc... that I HAD.. to combo certain things together to get at the individual bolts and nuts under there. Each bolt presented a new challenge, it's like a puzzle figuring out how to get at them. And for a couple links a puzzle to maneuver them from the car.

Was able to do most with car fully jacked up on one side.

Random Tips:

On diesels, remove the small rear belly pan covering where a gas fuel pump would go.

Unroute the diesel filler neck drain hose from the bottom suspension area outlet (drain to ground) to get better access to a bolt. The tube will be stiff an cranky.. do it on a warm day, or blowdry it for a while to warm up.

Block up both rear wheels under the lower control arm where it meets the wheel, then let the car down off the jacks - let it rest with axle in normal position before tightening the rear suspension bolts.

Oh ya, spray PB blaster, or equivalent on all all the nuts and bolts a few days in advance, then do it again day-of...

uhmm.. no matter what you do, expect to get real filthy. Wear a tight fitting head rag because you will be sticking your head into weird places.

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D