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Old 06-12-2009, 01:16 AM
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mgburg mgburg is offline
"Illegal" 3rd Dist. Rep.
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Onalaska, WI.
Posts: 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
I finally had some time to work on this problem again. I used a light bulb to test the circuit in a variety of places. The problem was in the converter. Good amperage coming in, inadequate amperage going out. Replaced the two bulb to one convertor and everything is working fine. Have no idea how those converters work but something was awry inside. Thanks for all the help.
Those converters use diodes to "steer" the voltage from the input circuit to the proper output circuit.

Think of it this way...

If the two Input circuits (Stop/Turn Lights and Running Lights) are used to power one Output circuit (Stop/Turn/Running Light), you have to have something BLOCKING the activated signal from coming back and interferring with the source of the Input circuit's activation...

Diodes let electricity flow in one direction and impede/stop it from coming back to where it came...

Diodes also "open" or "short" - therefore, troubleshooting a black block of epoxy with input/output wires is pretty touchy, to say the least...unless you understand the basics of that type of circuitry, or you're able to read a schematic.

Generally, once that block of black starts acting up...ditch it and either modify the trailer light circuitry to mimic the towing vehicle's own, or just pitch it out and get another one...and if you're traveling great distances, buy one or two extra, just in case the one hooked up as you leave your homestead decides to "vacation" itself...
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M. G. Burg
'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K
.'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K
..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K
...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K
....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K
.....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K
......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp
.......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125

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