Quote:
Originally Posted by NY300SD
No we didn't. I noticed they were pretty flat, but they didn't come with the filter so we were stuck leaving them on. You think it has something to do with the low pressure?
I'll ask him about the idle rpms.
Thanks
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Replacing those 2 O-rings (size 6x10x2mm) has cured the low idle Oil pressure for some members but not all. If Oil goes by those O-rings it goes back into the Oil pan.
Also iside of that long stem itself is a Check Valve. If you have access to compressed air and an Air Gun at the top of the stem there is a little hole. Blow compressed air through that little hole in a short burst to clear anything that might be trapped under the Check Valve and keeping it from closing (one member said he pulled cotton that had come out of the filter from the Check Valve).
In the above picture a small amout of Oil passes through the upper portion of the Oil Filter (the bypass section of the oil filter) and goes into the small hole at the top of the Oil Filter Stem.
The Oil travels down the stem and goes past #19 the Check Valve.
After going through the Check Valve the Oil continues down the stem past #20 and #21 (these are the 2 O-rings, when you order them you get 2 that are the same size).
The Oil goes out of the stem into passage C and back into the Oil pan.
Another thing I forgot to ask is if the oil he had in the car before had a higher viscosity?
Meaning that if the old Oil was thicker it could have a higher idle pressure than the new thinner Oil.
Also, if it is still there; there should be a tag up near the Radiator that has the proper Idle Speed for your year and Model written on it.