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Old 08-23-2009, 05:49 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
t walgamuth t walgamuth is online now
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,969
Just a note to anybody who might be wanting to take off these head bolts with the allen tops:

This problem was most probably caused by not clenaing out the recess in the top of the bolt where the allen fits in. If you clean that out and are very diligent about getting the allen pushed down all the way I don't believe you will ever strip out the insides. You also need to be very careful about keeping it straight while you are applying torque. You have to put one hand on the top of the joint between the arm and the axle of the breaker bar and hold it straight as you apply force. This job is not for the faint of heart and does take some strength to do.

They take a tremendous amount of torque to break loose. Each one which is removed with the breaker bar with cheater applied will feel like something is going to break just before it breaks loose, but nothing ever does. Use a good quality breaker bar though.

I have a craftsman and I use a 3/4" piece of conduit that is about 16" long as a cheater bar. It is just a little too small to slip on and has to be pounded on which is nice because it stays that way. I generally just leave it on there.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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