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Searching through the forum for information on how to remove the head everyone said "be sure to remove the cam towers in the proper order, using the proper procedure, or you will end up with a broken cam shaft". Ok, but they didn't mentioned what the proper order and procedure is. So for anyone reading this thread in the future, looking for just that type of information, here is what I did eventually find, and use, successfully:
With cam at TDC remove 1,5,6
Slacken the bolts on 2,3,4,7 one turn at a time on each bolt until loose. This will take about 5 or 6 repetitions until all the tension is removed.
The head is off.
No steam cleaned cylinders.
No cracks visible to my naked eye.
All of the exhaust side head bolts were tight.
All of the head bolts under the cam towers were tight.
1/2 of the head bolts under the injectors were not tight.
1/2 of the intake side head bolts were finger loose!!!
At first look, using a carpenter's square as a flat edge, the head seems to be warped. Sitting right side up, the center is arched up.
My thinking is that the loose bolts were stretched when the head was overheated and warped. Once the head cooled and relaxed a little, the bolts were then loose.
In the photos: The head was wiped clean with a little degreaser. The block has not been cleaned yet.
__________________
Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
Last edited by GregMN; 08-28-2009 at 06:47 PM.
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