Fisherman,

Didn't find anything on the CD either. Injector testing is not typically a DIY job. Without getting too technical, think of the injector as a pressure actuated valve. Closed at low pressure from injector pump when the cylinder doesn't need fuel, then a two step opening process when the cylinder does need fuel. First step is the "crack", or a partial opening. Then full open. Both steps are at high pressure - in the neighborhood of 1500psi - and all injectors need to be operating within the same pressure range. Injector pump shops have the equipment to adjust the pressures and inspect the spray pattern at the same time, and prices are usually reasonable if you pull the nozzle holders and bring them in with the correct specs (that I don't have for your engine). Even new nozzles should be checked before installing. While a nozzle (part of the injector) can be cleaned at home with a wooden stick soaked in fuel, it's best to be shown in person as a fingerprint in the wrong place can ruin it. The CD does a good job explaining how to pull the nozzle holders and shows the parts that need to be replaced every time one is pulled.

Psfred, I hope I didn't induce confusion with my previous post. My vacuum checks and venturi butterfly check are both with the engine off. I do agree with not pulling the vacuum box unless the diaphragm is leaking. Unexposed parts seem to be the last to go.

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daBenz - 1970 220D