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Old 10-28-2009, 11:35 PM
tinypanzer tinypanzer is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhjenkins View Post
I did do a little CCU diagnosis by using a temperature probe & my fluke MM, though I didn't test any resistance. After driving for about 20 minutes, I took the ambient temperature reading from the meter and set the rotary dial to that. When I did that, the heat shut off completely and the blower slowed down. When I decreased my set temperature, the blower sped up (however A/C is non-functional right now due to leak) and I got cool air (it was around 69 that day). When I returned the dial to the ambient temp, the blower slowed down again. When I increased my set temp., I got more blower and good heat.

I don't believe it's a stuck thermostat, because the last time I drove to work, it was pretty close 80-85 when I parked it. I then got the RPM's up to around 4k, and the temp dropped quickly down to 60, indicating that the thermostat must have opened.

Honestly, if I don't hit any lights, it's less than a 6 minute drive @ 35mph...

My '00 GMC Sierra barely has heat by the time I get to work, too. Of course, that's why I have remote start


Sounds like you did a pretty decent test of the CCU, the blower speeds and temp change behavior is correct as you noted.

So - You are getting good heat, just not in that short a drive, correct? If you drive further, you get good heat?

Perhaps the aux coolant pump is dead, if your car has one.
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1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
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