Originally Posted by dhjenkins

Any leaks at the booster will be inside it, not outside. Does it hold vacuum? Think so.

If you pump the brakes with the car off, does the pedal rise and hold? Yes.

Is the pedal squishy or just low? Low.

And when you say "low", do you mean it's return position is low or the point at which it engages the brakes is low? Point of engagement low.

Is your brake light on? Went out after caliper replacement. Came on after bleeding lines.Went off after short test trip.

Did you use an OEM caliper or Autozone junk? OEM caliper (Girling sp?) 60 with mercedes star on it.

When you changed the caliper, did you clamp off the line or did you accidentally allow the brake resevoir to become empty? I disconnected the line. And immediately threaded it into the new caliper. Lost very little fluid if any.

Do you have any braking power at all? Yes. If so, is it power assisted or do you really have to mash on the pedal to get it to stop? Very easy to engage the brakes and car stops predictably.Did you check for leaks at all 4 wheels (and wherever the bleed screw opening is pointing) as well as all of the brake lines? Yes. Looked at each caliper individually, Scanned the underside of the car looking for any signs of wetness. Saw nothing. Will double check. If the brake lines are rubber, what's their condition? They are rubber and old but look fine. Again no signs of swelling or degradation.

Pumping the brakes repeatedly with the engine running can deplete the vacuum reserve in the booster, so try driving it "normally" if the brakes are stopping the car. Durring the test ride about 1/2 mile the brakes where used normally and worked fine just engaged low. NY inspector said he will not pass car for inspection with low engagement.

Before you replaced the caliper, did you drive the car? Was the pedal higher then? I did drive the car for only about 6 miles. Honestly don't recall pedal height.