Huh. That seems rather counterproductive.

Everytime you tighten two threaded items together - a nut & bolt, for example - you slightly deform the threads on both, which weakens them. This is why most things that are going to be repeatedly re-torqued are on a stud/nut setup, from wheels to race engines.

If your anchor point is the flange or wheel bearing itself and something goes south - you'll have to replace the whole thing.

The original poster, for example, may end up stripping out the threads on his flange, so instead of just spending 5 minutes knocking out a $3 stud out and popping in a new one, the entire thing will require replacement.

This is really a "danger" when people take their vehicle to shops that just impact the crap out of the wheel fasteners, often torquing them to 2 - 3 time the spec, thus speeding up the damage.

I wonder if anyone has ever converted to a stud/nut setup. It wouldn't be that difficult.

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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.