I just did this, too. I chased each hole with a tap, lightly oiled the head bolts as they went back in (they were all in-spec), and also marked him with a dab of white paint for the 90 degree stages. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY, as I needed to remove and reposition the breaker bar once or twice when clearance became an issue during the final torquing stage. That's a LOT of torque applied!

Be sure those bolt heads are good and clean. Since they're new, they ought to be, but if you have any gunk that prevents the bit from seating, you may break it. I broke two -- one when removing the bolts, and another (the official MB Hazet tool!) when replacing. I am hoping the dealership will replace the latter; it certainly should not have broken, as I was being particularly careful with it.

Good luck!

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)