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Old 12-13-2009, 05:10 PM
barry123400 barry123400 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
Posts: 6,510
Quote:
Originally Posted by paul46 View Post
I really do appreciate the feedback on this stuff, even if its stuff I don't like to hear. So, basically if I want to rebuild the IP I need buy a $148,000.00 machine and then need to be educated for a long time before I could even think about it... I get it.

Today was cold here in Atlanta about 35. I managed to go out and try to start the car again. After two cranks it started up and idled perfect then I pulled the linkage full open and it reacted perfectly normal the engine revved and went back to idle immediately as it should. It did this several times. Once the engine began to warm up it began to take longer and longer for it to return to idle until eventually it acted just the same as it did in the video. This is an indication to me that the problem is relative to the heat of the IP, so something must be swelling with the heat that is binding or sticking. It is still on the 50/50 mix from the tank, which is another factor. And I know there are probably many more.

I also was able to pick up some straight clean diesel
that I will try in the test you suggested in the morning.

If I ever get this IP to work properly I'll put the white plastic vacuum regulator for the tranny back on it. I would like to swap the auto for a manual eventually.

FYI I bought an 84 300sd that was not running for $200 about two years ago. It was sitting in a field for a long time. My son and I went to pick it up with a battery a can of diesel, some oil, and a small air compressor. After an hour of messing with it we drove it home. I pulled that engine and tranny and put them in my 1980 123 that I paid $800 for. I still have the non turbo 617 that was in the 123 that ran perfect. The 83 300sd that I'm working on now we paid $1300 for.

I say all that because as you can see I don't have a lot invested in these cars. I'm not gonna spend hundreds to rebuild an injection pump when you can find a whole car that actually runs good out there for less than an injection pump. Since I don't have a lot invested I'm not afraid to try stuff. I realize I need to be careful with these diesels and I appreciate the warnings and the education I'm getting from all those on this site. I'm not a mechanic and don't have a lot of experience, never done any of this stuff before. I am retired and enjoy getting things to work.
No problem with what you mention. I am am retired and staying very busy as well. Plus some of us that own these cars are also some what financially conservative. So tight we squeek when we walk comes to mind. I cannot believe I just typed that either. Believe me you are not alone.

It is also a pretty sure bet the majority on this site would not run to an injection pump rebuilder either. Instead using whatever it took to locate a cheap good used one if really needed.

You might have noticed there were no suggestions to run to a pump rebuilder in the thread. Or even that the injection pump has really failed. It is just a possibility at this point. If the injection pump is capable of feeding the engine with straight diesel fuel is the question.

I again would try to use a safe but serious solvent to clean out the pump. The run up as the car warms up may be a byproduct of the temperature change in there on whatever is in the pump that should not be in there.

There are no conventional seals in there either I believe. Not totally sure though as I have never taken one apart. Yellit a very knowledgeable member. On the otherhand has to try to understand exactly how they function. Several other members have as well. Just their names escape me at the moment. At least one has worked in a shop repairing injection pumps.
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