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Old 12-23-2009, 08:11 PM
TimFreeh TimFreeh is online now
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Milford, DE
Posts: 1,572
I just finished this job and I'd like to add a few details for anyone that attempts this job in the future....

1) When you remove the control arm pay attention to the type of bolt that attaches the control arm to the frame - there are two types of bolts used. The first type of bolt has a 'torx' head (T55 I think). It may be removed in the standard way. The second type of bolt has a standard hex-head, this bolt is a camber/caster correction bolt and its purpose is to reposition the control arm to correct caster and/or camber angles of the suspension. When this bolt is removed there are two offset washers that will reposition the control arm +/- 3mm from its standard center location. These washers can be installed in two separate positions 180 degrees apart. Take note of the position of the washers and be sure to reinstall them in the same orientation when you reinstall the control arm. Note: its possible to have both types of bolts (torx and hex) on the same car.

2) the control arm bushings are really, really hard to remove and replace without the correct bushing removal tools. It's very unlikely that the average person is going to have a collection of sockets or even a set of generic bushing instillation tools that will get this job done. The amount of force required remove and reinstall the bushings is also very high. I managed to strip two sets of 1/2 inch 'all-thread' that I was using to provide the pulling force. I finally used a 20 ton shop press and I'd bet I was using at 1/2 to 3/4 of the capability of the press. These babies are in there. For the non financially challenged among us there are complete control arm assemblies available that already have new bushings installed - this route would greatly simplify things but would substantially increase the costs. Pick your poison.

3) The bushings have to be installed in a specific orientation, there are separate procedures for front and rear bushings.

4) The control arm bolts have to be tightened to 120 nm while the car is in its 'ready to drive' state with the suspension fully loaded.
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