An old school trick for an engine that was going to sit for a while was to pour a quart or two of good old fashioned trans fluid down the throttle to coat the intake valves/pistons/rings and turning the the engine over manually a few times. In your case, I'd remove the valve covers and pour a bit over all the valve train parts as well. It'll stop the rust and prevent any new stuff from forming.
As has been stated earlier, any fine surface rust will dissappear quickly once the engine runs for a bit - much like the rust on a brake rotor. You'll probably want to change your oil after a few hundred miles though, as there will be very tiny rust particles circulating through your engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestas
Wait until you get a warm balmy day during the winter. The warm humid air will hit the cold metal and cover everything with dew. This happens once in a while in my garage. When that happens, everything is wet... my cars, tools, fastener collection...
|
I hate that. Why is it some metal smells like puke when it oxidizes? I've been tossing in the little silica packets that come with stuff in my tool cabinet(s) drawers and that seems to help a little...
__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608
Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.
