Activate your auxiliary fans manually, as to prevent overheating.
Does anyone know how to follow the brown and gray wire that activates the full speed auxiliary fan relay?
In the relay box, behind the fuse box, there is another box where the majority of relays are placed.
There are two plated relays that control the auxiliary fan (2 in some models) to protect the engine from overheating.
One of them activates the aux. fan at low speed (when engine reaches 105 degrees Centigrades) and the other activates the aux. fan at full speed, when the engine reaches 115 degress centigrades. (The water boils and evaporates at 100 degress centigrades).
Recently I had to climb some mountains with very hot weather (37 degrees centigrades) and the cooling system was working 15 degrees over normal maximum temp here.
To prevent engine from damages, I am activating the fan manually, as soon as I begin climbing, because the automatic activation begins too late.
However, I can activate only the low speed. There is a brown and gray wire that activates the full speed relay (I see it in the electric circuit and in the relay), that I cannot find, to intercept and manually operate.
Does anyone know where in the car does that wire goes from the relay box? Where does it travel below the engine hood?
I would thank a lot help on this.
At the same time, it is an idea for prevent the engine from overheating in very hot days.
Of course, this measure do not replace having a very good radiator, a working water pump, a working thermostat, and so on. It is just a complement.
Thank you in advance.
Old Beaver
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricSilver
I have the radiator with the all-plastic neck in my 89 260E. While trying to stop what I thought was a persistently leaky hose -- losing about 2 quarts of water a day -- I over-tightend the hose clamp and crushed and crumbled the outer-lip portion of the neck.
It turns out that the hose connection was fine and there was actually a hairline crack in the inner part of the "L" of the neck.
My remedy (which is holding up so far):
From Home Depot I bought a 1" copper pipe bushing, some putty epoxy, and some JB Weld. The bushing -- a rather substantial piece of metal -- fit perfectly and tightly into the radiator neck, and was exposed only where the plasitc had broken off. I filled the exposed areas with the putty epoxy then, after it hardened, covered it, and the area around the hairline crack, with the JB Weld.
After drying and curing overnight (plus a few extra hours) I rough sanded it, and reattached the hose, turning the clamp as tight as I wanted since there is no way I'll damage that copper fitting. So far, the car is dry as dust with no leaks, and running noticeably cooler.
Just thought I'd share this cheap and easy fix -- or preventive measure -- for a common problem.
Eric Silver
1989 260E
165,000 miles
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