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Originally Posted by barry123400
Have you verified the current stretch on the old chain indicates the need? Many of the cars we buy have already had at least one chain change. We have no way usually of knowing that without records. Other than correctly checking the existing stretch.
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and by the same token, I don't know how many times the stretch has been corrected. I am going to measure it out of curiosity but I'm definitely going to replace it with the Iwis brand chain which is the good brand that you were thinking of. The bad brands are just about every other brand!
Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400
If by some chance you do pull the rockers on the valvecrain. Make sure you number them. They must all go back to the exact same place they were removed from. You probably knew that but just in case. Each rocker develops it's own individual wear profile with time.
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I have to replace the valve stem seals anyway, so I was thinking I'd pull the rockers anyway. I'm going to make sure I'm prepared with an empty egg carton to keep everything in its right place. Good point, thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400
Also important that you check the condition of the chain slider. Many times a new chain is rolled in with without it done. This slider can become the cause of a chain failure if in bad condition down the road.
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What am I looking for on the slider? Scratch marks? What wear is normal. I haven't gotten ahold of the FSM so I'm a little in the dark about some things.
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'82 240D 224K miles manual transmission
mods: wooden 4by4 bumper, EGR delete and older EX manifold without EGR port, glass pack muffler (cheapest replacement muffler), rebuilt bosch injectors with Monark nozzles
working on: aux electric fuel pump, coolant/fuel heat exchanger/filter head, afterglow, low oil pressure buzzer/LED
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