Quote:
Originally Posted by Jettpilot
My car had the same issues and were resolved by replacing the oxygen sensor. You state that the car idles fine when cold (oxygen sensor running in open loop until heated) but after the car warms up it will start to stumble (oxygen sensor in closed loop).
I believe I read in one of your earlier posts in this thread that the car will stumble unless you go WOT (again oxygen sensor running in open loop).
The wiring for the oxygen sensor enters the vehicle cabin right in front of the passenger seat. Lift up the mats on the passenger side, move the seat all the way back and look for the connector there.
Unplug the connector while the car is acting up and see if that clears up the stumble.
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Well today I drove 25 miles on a highway ( LIE) to go change caps/rotors. Got caught in traffic for the last 10 miles so engine got to around 98 C (I Use K6JRF a/c diagnostics to display engine temp in a/c window) and it missfired pretty hard 2-3 X. Actually sounded like a backfire .
Got to the mechanic who swore without seeing car that it was caps and rotors that were the problem. He changed them and said the old ones were bad. I took them with me to look at . Dont ask me what I am looking for , but you can tell me what to look for ,and he said they were bad.
Drove the car all around long island for 30 minutes and it hesitated a few times but for a much shorter duration and less frequently than before , at least in my mind thats what I thought.
I drove back to the new Mechanic and told him it is better but still not right. He said its not the MAF, as I had that in mind to work on next . He says it prolly is the suppressors on the spark plugs. I told him I should change wires totally and he said just change suppressors. I told him his ex boss at MB dealership , who is shop foreman of mechanics, changed 3 suppressors and said if that did not solve it, plus changing all the plugs that the dealer did, I should change wires next . New mechanic said wires in my model car do not go bad. Grrr . Opinions
The new mechanic said also to change fuel filter when I change wires, to protect against bad gas . I might just change filter and give that a shot before I spend $$ money on wires. Does anyone think that could be the cause ?
I thought maybe give the sensors time to acclimate to the new rotors and it seemed better for a about and hour in stop and go, start and restart. After 45 minutes driving I accellerated quickly from a toll station and it stalled for a fraction of a second as opposed to 1-2 seconds as before.
Then I got into NYC and drove around in traffic and the hesitation although "MAYBE" not as severe is still there . Obviously the car gets warmer in NYC traffic and thats where I really have to be able to have the car run perfectly, to say it is fixed.
It looks like this is becoming a parts changing , guessing game for me .
I thought I would do the MAf cleaning but this mechanic says that stuff is garbage . So many mechanics, so much disagreement .
I am going to look tomorrow night at the wires to see if they are arcing and MAYBE disregard what he says and do a MAF cleaning . Or I could just change the fuel filter, unless I have an obvious arcing that I can see .
Again the problem happens and gets more frequent the warmer the engine is . Grr .Is there no way to diagnose this problem without just changing parts arbitrarily? He did not put a diagnostic tool on the car and I will call him tomorrow and ask him why not .
What should I look for on Caps /rotors? I am getting a daily headache from this.
The only good news is that this guy is very fair, pricewise and seems very honest .
Any other thoughts guys. I am going to take 2 tylenol .
