Now; If you feel the urge to point, feel free to do so.
Here's my story, sad but true.
Bought the car it was running fine, Used a good bit of oil though. Within 2000 miles the check engine light would flicker, still ran good. Then the ABS light would come on and go off. About three seconds on. Time on was within what the OM said was normal.
Within a couple of weeks engine began to miss while CE light was on. Problem was intermittant and might happen and then go a week without it. Tech at the local MB ******** told me to replace the OVP. I did. The frequency increased. Tech says "fuel pump relay". Did that. Again, increasingly worse. Next, he installs a resitor in the temp sensor. No change. I replace plugs with Bosch Platinums. Thing runs VERY bad. Go back to copper core and I'm back where I started. Replace O2 sensor. Frequency continues to increase. Finally got to the point where I would have to stop and unplug the CIS-E unit just to "limp home". Actually it ran pretty well like that. Hard to start cold though. Replaced the CISE. No change. Fuel pumps, no change. Car spends all day in the shop. Tech thinks its the contacts in the CIS-E connector. He spreads them and sends me on my way, after I paid him well! No check engine light! Hooray! But, engine ain't runnig smoothly! 50 miles later, yup, check eng liht! I'm about ready to scream now. So oil consuption is at a quart per 400 miles. I figure slowing that down might help. Had head reworked with all new valve guides, new chains, new flywheel position sensor and transmission(it needed one). Now car is very hard to start and gremlin is still there. Also starts in third gear, but that's another issue. OVP, power window relay top of CIS-e all get hot quickly. Voltage is at 13.65 / 13.66. And as you've already heard, idle valve "clicks" after it dies. Tech says, you guessed it... needs new OVP!!
That's why I would like to bypass it just to test for that!