Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris
Understand that on any German car that if a drain plug has a washer, this washer is always replaced with a new one and never reused.
This car is designed to have motor oil "vacuumed" out the dipstick tube, and it's sure an easier process and removes the same amount of oil (or more) than draining.
It's the 21st century--why would you even consider nonsynthetic motor oil?
And forget completely all SMs and SJs and viscocity figures and look instead for Mercedes specification approval printed ON THE BOTTLE. Follow recommendations here: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/9511/?requestedDocId=9511
Your best bet for motor oil is Mobil 1 European Formula 0W-40, which meets Mercedes specifications. Remember, if the Mercedes 229.x number is not printed on the bottle, the oil is NOT suitable for a Mercedes.
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Wow! Where do I start?
First off - (Question) Those of you who take your cars to the dealer for routine service, do they do a top-side evac of the oil when performing an oil change? Just curious.
Draining by gravity has always worked well for me. I once borrowed a buddy's evac tank for a boat I once owned and I have to tell you, it took a lot longer to get the same amount of oil evac'd than had I been gravity draining it. It only makes sense to me that I will leave more of the old oil in the pan by using vac than draining - after all, I don't believe you can beat gravity when it comes to draining oil! (BTW, I would need to buy another 'space-gobbling' tool that I really don't have the space in my garage for!)
Second - in response to the 21-century remark AND answering your question,
"why would you even consider nonsynthetic motor oil?" - I have lived long enough to understand that I will not trust my own personal 'thoughts' or 'feelings' or 'understanding' on how things work or should work or how it will perform if I do 'X' without first delving into it and ASKING others who may (or may not) know a whole bunch more than I on any given subject matter! Such irresponsible attitudes can end up costing far more than I may be prepared for due to damage that might be done. As I have read here someplace, there are as many 'opinions' on this issue of oil as there are members and I am grateful for your link that has educated me more so than before your finger hit the 'submit' trigger!
Third - addressing your last statement,
"Remember, if the Mercedes 229.x number is not printed on the bottle, the oil is NOT suitable for a Mercedes." A quote from the link you so graciously provided states: "Mercedes-Benz recommends the use of MB-approved engine oils listed in the Mercedes-Benz oil specification sheet 229.3 or 229.5 which
also meet ACEA and/or API classifications listed on the chart below. If a MB-approved or ACEA quality engine oil is not available,
then an API quality engine oil meeting the below listed API classification can be used.(SJ or SL -
added by me) Only engine oils (including synthetic) with any of the following classification grades, or combinations thereof, are approved."
Now, if I understand this, (looking at the chart in the link) if the bottle has an 'SJ or SL API Classification', it is fine to use.
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Dale
1995 E320 Wagon 185K [SOLD]
1988 260e Sedan 165K
2007 F-150 XLT 188K [SOLD]
2003 Harley Davidson FLTRI Anniversary 26K
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2006 BMW 330Ci 110K - [SOLD]